Karakoram by Steve Swenson

Author:Steve Swenson [Swenson, Steve]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781594859731
Publisher: Mountaineers Books
Published: 2017-04-01T04:00:00+00:00

MAP 3: Charakusa and Nangmah Valleys

With the rope tied between us clipped to intermediate anchors, the three of us climbed together to the second rock band, where I led up an ice gully through the first section. Then Jeff took over and led us through a short rock section that put us onto the second icefield. We climbed together to the bottom of the final rock section that led onto the ridge. This section of rock was a lot steeper, and we again counted on Marko to get us up two very difficult rope lengths of mixed ice and rock. We didn’t think anyone else had attempted this route, so we were surprised to find old ropes, bolts, and cable ladders from a previous expedition. It’s common to find old gear on mountains or routes that, according to available information, are unclimbed; we figured they were relics from a previous failed attempt. (Later research showed these artifacts were probably from a Japanese attempt on the peak in 1977.) Marko led on the last pitch to the ridge, which consisted of a steep rock slab covered by new snow that had to be cleared so we could climb on the more solid granite underneath.

When climbing at home, it’s usual protocol to share the leading responsibilities with your partners. That way, everyone has a chance to work on the technical skills and mental fortitude it takes to put the rope up first. It’s easier and less intimidating for everyone who follows the leader, because they can climb with a rope from above to protect them. But on expeditions to difficult peaks in remote places, the primary objective is to get the team to the top—equal opportunity leading is less important. For the kind of technical mixed rock and ice climbing we did, Marko was the most skilled, followed by Jeff, so on the difficult sections it was more efficient for them to share the leading. Unless it was easier terrain that I could lead quickly, I contributed by carrying supplies and equipment behind them.

Once we got to the snow ridge where the difficulties eased, I alternated leading with Jeff up through deeper snow to a flat, narrow section of the ridge. There we dug a platform for the tent. As the day ended, Marko reminded Jeff and me that he wasn’t excited about this route. I couldn’t tell if that meant he wasn’t excited about being with us or if he didn’t like the climbing. I probably should have tried to find out what was bothering him. His clear lack of enthusiasm was taking the fun out of our effort and an attempt to address his concerns might have improved the team dynamic. Climbers all have their quirks. For all of Markos’s insensitivity while he was on the mountain, he was more aware of the people around him when he wasn’t climbing. Later, he would remember my birthday and send photographs or a Christmas gift—things that most of my climbing friends never do.

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